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chapter eight @ 2000 may


New and Old Suzhou
suzhou through the ages:

514 B.C. to 2000 A.D.


Didn't believe me when I described Suzhou in the Chuck in China 7 Intro? Here's what a few travel guidebooks have to say about Suzhou.

Marco Polo was one of the earliest travel writers and by lucky co-incidence! he visited Suzhou (then called Sin-gui) a few times: As cited on the Suzhou title page, he described it thusly:

"Sin-gui [Suzhou] is a large and magnificent city, the circumference of which is twenty miles. The inhabitants are idolators, subjects of the Grand Khan, and use his paper money. They have vast quantities of raw silk, and manufacture it, not only for their own consumption, all of them being clothed in dresses of silk, but also for other markets.....By the name of Singui [Suzhou] is to be understood 'the city of the earth', as by that of Kinsai [Hangzhou], 'the city of heaven' ".

Travels of Marco Polo, (Wordsworth Ediitions Ltd., 1997) p.182

On an earlier visit Marco Polo noted that:

"The city of Sin-gui [Suzhou] is noble, large, and handsome, and rich in merchandise and manufactures; all the inhabitants of this city are idolaters, and are the subjects of the Grand Khan and use paper money; within it, but on the southern side passes a large and deep river."

Travels of Marco Polo (ibid) p.169

[n.b. the "large and deep river" is China's Grand Canal which runs from Beijing down to Hangzhou passing through Suzhou.

And that "Grand Khan" would be Kublai Khan....who "did a stately pleasure dome decree" - in Xanadu - or so said Samuel Taylor Coleridge in one of his most famous poems "Kublai Khan"].


From Hugh Thomas's tome A History of the World:

Up through the middle 1800's Suzhou, with 500,000 people, ranked as one of the ten largest cities in the world, far surpassing such commonly known places as 11th place Moscow (250,000), Vienna, Berlin, Rome (160,000), Madrid, Bombay, Delhi, Mexico (the whole country!), Venice (134,000), Warsaw, New York (33,000!) and Boston (18,000). (Thomas, Hugh. A History of the World (New York: Harper & Row, 1979) p.226)


As Travels of Marco Polo notes on a further visit:

"On one occasion, when [I] was at the city of Sin-gui [Suzhou], [I] saw there not fewer than fifteen thousand vessels [on the rivers].

- Travels of Marco Polo, (ibid) p.179


More recently, the Lycos Internet City Guide describes Suzhou thusly:

"Suzhou is the Venice of China. On his 13th century visit, Marco Polo marveled at the city's bridgework and architecture, so reminiscent of his hometown. And Suzhou's canal network is linked to China's Grand Canal, which runs from Beijing to Hangzhou.

Founded in 514 BC, Suzhou is situated 50 miles west of Shanghai on the Yangtze River Delta in Jiangsu Province. Known as the home of silk, and famous for its embroidery, Suzhou is also blessed with ornate gardens (e.g. Master of Nets, Wave Pavilion, the Humble Administrator's Garden) considered to represent the peak of Chinese garden design.

Given demand for modernization, and to preserve the Old City, the Chinese State Council recently instituted the Suzhou New Development. That is a high tech industrial zone on the west side, which is thriving with collaborative investment from Singapore.

Yet, cultural heritage remains the main attraction in Suzhou, one of China's top four tourist towns. With ample evidence, the city still supports the 1,000 year old saying: 'In heaven there is paradise, down on earth there are Suzhou and Hangzhou.' "

- Lycos City Guide

[Note from Chuck: Lycos is correct on all counts but one - there is indeed a development zone to the west of downtown. It is called Suzhou New District (SND) and it is indeed quite impressive. But the Chinese State Council and the government of Singapore's collaboration is the large development zone to the EAST of downtown. Known as the Suzhou Industrial Park (SIP), it is separate and distinct from the Suzhou New District to the west. It is equally impressive. In short, Suzhou has two development zones going on - immediately east and west of the central city. These two distinct districts are smart urban planning on Suzhou's part - a rarity in China today. For more information on both, check the list of links below.)


About 50 miles to the west of Shanghai, China, lies the ancient and beautiful city of water country -- Suzhou.


Ancient Chinese saying: To enjoy the best in life, according to an ancient Chinese saying, one has to be "born in Suzhou, live in Hangzhou, eat in Guangzhou and die in Liuzhou".


From an on-line Travel Guide to Suzhou:

The long history of the city has left behind many attractive scenic spots and historical sites with beautiful and interesting legends. The elegant classical gardens, the ancient towering pagodas, the old-fashioned houses and delicate bridges hanging over flowing waters in the drizzling rain, the beautiful lakes with undulating hills in lush green, the numerous scenic spots and historical sites, and the exquisite arts and crafts, etc. have made Suzhou a renowned historical and cultural city full of eternal and poetic charm.

Suzhou was the capital of the Wu State during the Spring and Autumn Period. In 514 BC, by the command of King He Lu of Wu, his senior minister Wu Zixu built the Great City of He Lu, and its wall measured 23.5 kilometers in circumference with 8 pairs of land - and - water gates. The city began to take the name of Suzhou and Gusu City during the Sui Dynasty. Numerous changes have taken place in Suzhou through its vast history. Yet, in spite of repeated devastation, the city is still seated exactly on the original site as it was 2500 years ago, which is indeed an instance rarely found in the world.

Source: http://www.chinapages.com/jiangsu/suzhou/


From another on-line travel guide:

Suzhou was an ancient capital founded in 514 BC. Crisscrossed by many canals, the city is called the Oriental Venice. It is one of the prettiest cities in China with its tree-lined streets, carved arch bridges, tiny whitewashed houses and classical gardens. The gardens are typical south China style. With fancy-shaped rockeries, curled-roof pavilions painted in soothing and harmonious colors, gentle lotus flowers and elaborately paved winding walkways, the gardens concentrate landscapes into an area of one or two acres.

The most famous ones are Lion Grove, Wave Pavilion, Lingering Garden, Master of Nets, and Humble Administrator's. The Tiger Hill, with a Leaning Tower, is also attractive. Cold Mountain Temple and West Garden Temple have a lot of interesting stories to offer. There are Grand Canal Boat Tours. Suzhou is the ideal place to buy silk garments, sandalwood and silk fans. Its embroidery, called Su Embroidery, will surely win the hearts of many ladies by its rich color and elegant style.-

"Up in heaven there's a paradise, down on earth there're Suzhou and Hangzhou", as the saying goes. Situated in the southern part of the Yangzi River Delta and built as earth as in 514 B.C., the city of Suzhou is a place famed for its long history and cultural heritage in China. Today Suzhou has a population of 5.51 million and covers an area of 8,488 sq. km. with 6 administrative regions, i.e. 3 cities and 3 counties. The old city proper has an area of only 14 sq. km.

Suzhou enjoys the reputation of being a land of fish and rice, the home of silk. Venice of the east, and a city of gardens. It has remains of the city wall with land and water gates, small bridges and canals lined nearly with tile-roofed houses and white-washed walls, temples and pagodas and many places of special historical interest. The Grand Canal flowing bu the city, the vast expanse of Lake Tai, the East Hill, Yu Hill, Sky-flat hill and Divine Rock Hill have enhanced the beauty of Suzhou. It is also celebrated for its paintings, calligraphy, silk embroidery, sandalwood fans, jade carvings lacquer wares and other crafts.

Only 86 km. away from Shanghai in the east, Suzhou is easily accessible by waterways, Highways and railways extending in all directions, and flights connecting Beijing, Guangzhou, Shenzhen, etc.

Suzhou is officially made known as one of the four major cities of tourist attraction in China.

- Infohub-China Travel: http://www.ihep.ac.cn/tour/suzhou/suzhou.html
(Original Chinglish grammar and spelling retained)



Chuck

So what's the skinny on Suzhou today?
Turn to Chapter 9 for my take on Suzhou today.

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Suzhou New District:
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